Lily Gladstone made history, being the first Native American person to be nominated in the category of Best Actress at the 96th Academy Awards.
Gladstone is nominated for her portrayal of Mollie Kyle, based on Mollie Burkhart, in Martin Scorsese’s epic Killers of the Flower Moon.
Only two weeks ago she made history becoming the first Indigenous woman to win the Golden Globe for Best Actress.
With all eyes on her, the Siksikaitsitapi and NiMíiPuu actor took the opportunity to honour her culture and people – wearing an Indigenous-designed gown.
The gown was a custom collaboration between Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno and Indigenous artist Joe Big Mountain.
The Mohawk, Cree and Comanche artist is the name behind Ironhorse Quilwork and is renowned for his quill-work jewellery.
Lily Gladstone at the 96th Annual Oscars held at at the Ovation Hollywood on March 10, 2024 in Los Angeles, California. Credit: Gilbert Flores/Variety via Getty Images
The midnight blue velvet design has a bustier trim and a matching cape embroidered with floral quillwork.
“The blues, greens, and reds were significant to her personally, and I wanted to have those close to her heart,” he told Vogue.
The opportunity was a pinch-me moment for Joe.
“Lily could have picked anyone in the world to design her dress for this monumental moment in her life, and she chose me—just a Native kid who grew up wanting to be an artist, trying to make a living for my family,” he said.
That’s a true reflection of who we are as Indigenous people: No matter the situation, we still want to bring everyone to the table.
From the first moment she stepped into the dress, Gladstone adored it.
“I can literally feel the love poured into each quill and bead—the dress is alive with it,” she said.
“The effortless integration of pinnacle luxury [from] both Iron Horse and Gucci was my dream from day one. It’s so brilliant, I cried.”
Joe brought together the team of Indigenous artists, who hand-sowed the 216 individual quilled petals for the cape.
Hailing from Oneida reservation in Wisconsin, the team included Kendrick Powless-Crouch, Jossalyn Metoxen, Seven Oshkabewisens, Dionne Jacobs, Paige Skenandore, Aryien Stevens and Joe’s wife Sunshine.
“Being asked to do this collaboration with Gucci by Lily means so much to our family and our community as a whole,” said Sunshine.
“Being an Indigenous artist, showing our people the lengths they can reach is tremendous.
“This opportunity gave us dreams we didn’t even know we had.”
US actress Lily Gladstone attends the Vanity Fair Oscars Party at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts in Beverly Hills, California, on March 10, 2024. Source: AFP / MICHAEL TRAN/AFP via Getty Images
In true style, Gladstone slipped into another Indigenous design for the After Party.
Again, the design was a collaboration between Gucci and Joe featuring cape short sleeves, a beaded fringe and quillwork embroidery along the square neckline.
While the evening acknowledged Gladstone for her career, her gowns paid homage to the people, culture and place that raised her.
“Because like the nomination itself, it’s historic, and meant to be a shared moment by Natives everywhere,” she said.
“Quillwork reflects the longest legacy of living craftsmanship in my corner of Indian Country. It is hugely culturally significant to so many nations, Blackfeet included.
“I grew up gazing at quillwork in many forms; in our headdresses, our regalia. The first pair of earrings I ever bought myself were quillwork, made by Bob Tailfeathers from back home.”
